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Assembly Tips for the 2 oz Topwater Spook Style Lure kit.

Same principles can be used on all other kits. Consult the pictorial pages on our website. Link

Tools Required, a better list/discussion is on our free lure forum.
Fine Sandpaper
Pliers (Round Nosed) Knipex Pliers work Well, avail @crawfordtool.com online
Wire cutters Knipex rod cutters work well for this also.
5/32 or 1/8 extended bit with battery drill recommended.
Additional items required:
Sealer-See our lure forum for good sealers
Paint- See our lure forum for good paints.
30 minute Epoxy/Finish- See below for recommendations.
Hooks/Split Rings-We have these on the site
Step #1 Using 5 minute epoxy apply to the belly weight and install into hole on bottom of lure-use hole that is not recessed.
Leave lure upside down until dry. You can use the back of the lure wire to mix the epoxy on a post-it note, a dime size area of part a and part b is usually sufficient to glue one lure weight. I like to use a piece of wire to got a glob on the end and roll it inside the weight area then put a small amount on any belly weights installed. Try not to use too much but make sure it's fully covered. If you use too much you will make it harder to open up the center hole again. Optionally fill belly hole with wood putty after weight is glued in and sand flush if necessary.

Step #2 If necessary, lightly sand lure with fine grit sandpaper to a maximum of 220 grit.
Step #2A Using an extended length 5/32" drill bit and very low speed, carefully drill the through-wire hole through the lead weights previously installed. Be very careful here and go slow so as not to let the lure go out of control and result in injury. Recommend you drill from the nose end especially if there is a tail weight in the back. Each lure is proof tested to make sure the wire will get through the swivel in the center.  
Step #3 It is highly recommended you seal the lure against water penetration to prevent the lure from splitting if it absorbs water.
This can be done with simple Shellac or a 60/40 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.
Observe caution and proper disposal of any rags used. Allow to dry fully before proceeding further.
Step #4 Prime and paint lure, several options exist-AC Moore has Anita craft paints available inexpensively and these can be used with a small brush. This is a good choice if the lures are to be made by children.
Alternately the lure can be be painted with spray paint available from any hardware store.
Testors model paint has some great little rattle cans of pearl colors and model car paints which will work well.
Bin primer is a good choice to prep the lure for paint. Follow all precautions with use of these items.
Step #5 After the lure is painted we recommend you spray with a minimum of two coats of Clear spray paint or brush with 30 minute Epoxy to protect the paint from rocks and sharp fish teeth. Allow to dry fully before handling.
Good clearcoats are KBS Diamond Finish, Devcon 30 minute Epoxy, Envirotex lite (available at AC Moore, Michaels, etc)
Any rod epoxy such as Aftcote etc work well also. Keep your finish thin so as not to ruin your lures action.
Step #6 Using 30 minute epoxy, glue belly grommet into recessed hole in bottom of lure. Glue eyes in also at this time.
Allow to dry fully before handling.

Step #7 Insert small 3/16" nose grommet into the front of the lure. Metal Lip swimmers etc do not use a nose grommet.
Step #8 Insert through wire into front of lure through the nose grommet until you see the wire just inside the belly hook hole.
Step #9 Take 150 lb swivel and insert into the belly hole while pushing the wire through the through-hole. The idea is to captivate the wire through the open end of the swivel inside the lure so just the bottom loop of the swivel is accessible on the bottom of the lure.  If you have a hard time captivating the swivel in the wire, I recommend putting a very slight bend in the last 3/8 of the wire, then when installing the wire you can twist it and use it to bridge any areas. Like a plumbers snake. after you turn the wire to let it grab the swivel you can twist it back and push it right through the hole. Every lure is proofed when it leaves our factory so we know the wire gets through ok, sometimes the hole is slightly off where it meets the belly and the bend at the end of the wire (10 degrees 3/8 long) will make your lure go together easier.
Step #10 Push the wire all the way into the front of the lure so that the tag end of the wire is inside the nose grommet. The wire will extend out the back of the lure. Line up the nose loop up and down on the lure.
Step #11 Install Large tail weight over the wire and insert into the rear of the lure. Some lures do not have this.
Remember this is a generic pictorial.
Step #12 Insert the post style tail grommet over the wire and insert into the rear of the previously installed weight.
Step #13 Wrap the wire into a loop on a pair of round nose pliers, or use a nail in a vise to bend the wire into a loop. Then wrap the wire around itself to tighten the through wire and "pre-stress" the wire inside the lure.

Step #14 Install 2/0 Treble belly and tail hooks using #5 split rings (Split rings and hooks not included in kit)  
These instructions detail very GENERIC/basic assembly/finishing techniques for this lure,
more information and lure finishing tips can be found on our free lure forum or utilize the search feature on the forum.
The link is on the navigation menu to the left on each page.
We do not accept any responsibility for any products recommended that don't work for you.
These are products commonly available to the consumer. Usage is at your own risk.
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